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2006 F250 FX 4x4 v10 extra cab 8ft bed. Death wable is so Bad. Will it fix

Hi, just got my 2014 E350 12 passenger van back from the Ford dealership. I brought it in because of a very noticeable shaking of the entire front end, which I can feel through the steering wheel. The dealership said the front two tires were out of round. So got 4 brand new tires. The shaking and juddering still exists. Especially on the interstate at 75 mph. An hour ago on the interstate, I thought it just be bushings then. We have brand new KYB shocks too from an independent auto aligner, which fixed half the problem. The new tires from Ford did not fix the other half. I just watched your entire video, and my question to you would be: in your research over the years, does the E350 Ford passenger van have the same caster-bushing problem as your old Excursion and newer truck? Thanks for your video. We're not at death wobble level yet, but I have to hold on tight. Good video. I will subscribe.

THANK YOU for this video series! I have a 2006 F250 that I've had for 10 years. In Jan 2023 I put a set of like new, good used, goodyear tires on it. I don't drive it much as I have a company vehicle. 2 months later while coming down I-75 in N Florida, I hit a POT HOLE and that started my death wobble experiences. I figured I had knocked a wheel weight off the truck. It happened one more time on that trip. I had the balance checked and the tires are still perfectly balanced. A few more trips to N Florida and back from Tampa and I just avoided as many potholes as possible and have not had the DEATH Wobble again, until last month, June of 2024. I going about 70MPH, in the center lane, It was SO BAD that from the center lane that the truck was going for the center jersey wall/wire and I couldn't steer it away from it going there, I HAD to hit the brake HARD to at least slow the impact, and FORTUNATELY, as soon as the truck slowed under 55MPH, the DEATH WOBBLE stopped and I merely missed the wall/wire by about 1 foot. Since then, I stepped up my research on the DEATH WOOBLE. LOTS of videos on the band-aid fix of adding steering dampeners. That didn't seem to be the fix in my eyes AT ALL, so I kept researching and have FINALLY stumbled on your videos and this REALLY REALLY MAKES SENSE! I am ordering the bushings from Amazon and will be replacing them next week. I will try to come back here with an update. Again, THANKS for your videos on this and nice job on the shameless plugs in your videos. Good luck on your internet ventures.

My 2019 has only 23,700 miles on it and it just did it VIOLENTLY. Can’t see any movement in any parts, definitely must need more caster. Had an old twin I-beam truck I converted to power steering, all of a sudden every time the road even changed color it darted one way or the other. I took it to an alignment guy and found it only had about +3* caster. He set it up with +14* caster and thing when down the road like an arrow. And no it didn’t ware tires, after 30K my Michelins still looked new. My 2019 is going to get as much caster as they can put in it.

How can I move the slide out out to get to the motor? I tried the override and the one side doesn't move. What can I do to get it out enough to get to that screw

Will this work for a 2012 F250?

Where is the Amazon link for these?

could use an automatic transfer switch? to isolate the power?

What are you asking for the van

Thanks for the info! 👍🏻

The sad thing about all this the lack of training the alignment tech gets (or cares to get) I learned alignments and caster/camber/toe way back when the alignment heads aimed a light onto a wall mounted board and went to Hunter for training. Now you roll up on the lift, slap some flags on the wheels, glance at the numbers and call it done. No understanding of alignment geometry required.

It says in bible, be a man, use gas, use stabil, never have a problem. Wear your dress anytime dude.

Oh how I love her statement so much so I subscribed. Ephesians 1:16 how sweet. God bless your family. Jesus is coming soooo soon

3 year old truck wobbling lol, built ford tough huh.

Another version...I had my Grand Cherokee to 5 different shops, spending more than $2000. Numerous shop owners and so called "front end specialists" telling me this was worn out and that wasn't any good. I was told that all it needed was an alignment so I think I had like 8 or ten alignments done on it. When this "dw" thing started (I had less than 30,000 miles on the Jeep), I replaced everything under the front end except the axles and the differential itself. Power steering gear box, everything!!! Still when I was going between 45 and 60 and hit the slightest little bump in the road, death wobble would nearly throw me off the road it was so violent!!! Everyone that aligned the thing did it according to what the "book" said to do. I knew it had nothing to do with worn out parts. It was getting the wobble from the flex in the tires. I decided to take things in my own hands and try and figure out what was happening. First thing I did was to adjust the toe in to where it had little to no toe in. My thinking was by what I was feeling in the steering wheel, the tires were fighting each other by one trying to roll toward the center and when it overcame the force of traction it jumped up and lost traction. This caused the other side to dip down and since it was now carrying most of the weight and was turned toward the center because of excessive toe in, it tried to go to center and when it got in a bind it would jump up and cause the same condition on the opposite side. I now have over 160,000 miles on my jeep and have not experienced death wobble once since I took all but the slightest bit of toe in out of my alignment. I have helped numerous friends with the same problem and to date, I have fixed the dw of all of them so hopefully this will be of help to you also. My thoughts are that the length and geometry of the control arms are a perfect match to create a harmonic condition that if they are forced to try and fight toe in, it creates this wobble and the tires can't help themselves!!! One other thing that led me to this conclusion. While I was trying to figure this out, I put a new set of tires on it because I was told my tires were bad and it made it worse than it was before the new tires. I went from stock size to 31 inches tall because I wanted taller tires anyway. Logic told me that I now had more side wall and the flex was greater than the shorter tires so I had one more piece of information to inject into the puzzle. Sorry for the long explanation, hope it helps you and others!!!

My DW story... I have a 93 Grand Cherokee. At around 30,000, it started the death wobble. I have a car lift and have done my own mechanic work all my life. So I figured I have this. Up it went and I did everything I have done to hundreds of vehicles for years to check all suspension and front drivetrain. Everything seemed tight and unworn. My wife's dad bought the Jeep new and passed shortly after. Her mother drove the jeep to the store and back till she passed and we inherited it. I know the thing was not put in four wheel drive very many times in it's life. So basically what I am saying is the Jeep was just like new when we got it with less than 20,000 miles. Back to the story of dw. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took it to an alignment shop that I have used for years and have always had good service from them. They couldn't find anything wrong so we drove it up the road. At 45 mph it went into the dw. The guy said he had never seen anything like this. He checked everything and did an alignment on it and it still, dw... After several attempts, he said he determined the track bar was the problem. $180. later he said it was fixed. I picked it up and on the way home it was still wobbling. Went right back and got my money back and found another shop. Same thing, not a clue what caused it but said I needed to replace all my bushings and tie rods. I asked why and they said they were all worn enough that they were all causing the problem. I didn't buy it. Now if I would go from 40 to 60 under heavy throttle, I could get past the wobble and it would run all day. But between 45 and 60 it would almost always wobble and violently!!! Eventually I replaced every part that can be replaced including tires twice because they would wear out fast. 4 or 5 shops tried to fix it and no one knew what to do. After putting up with the problem for several years and spending probably $2,000, I was thinking about what was going on when it was wobbling. I had even stuck my head out the window to watch the tire. What I decided was the toe in was causing the problem. I know it was aligned to specs at least 5 times but something was still not right! I got my tape measure out and a couple of pieces of angle iron and set the toe in to less than 1/8th of an inch. It was over 3/8ths when I first checked it. It has now been over 100,000 miles later and never once have I experienced the DW! I figured out the geometry of these suspensions cause this problem when they get to a certain harmonics. With the toe in adjusted in too far, the left tire will try to go right at a certain harmonic and when it gives in to traction making it slip, then the right tire will be trying to go left and at just the right harmonics the fight for traction gets to be more than the tires can support and they begin fighting and they start the wobble. Don't know if this is a good explanation, but when I took almost all the toe in out of my alignment, it fixed the problem. Even with 31 inch tires the wobble never came back. I now have over 160,000 and it runs and drives like a new one.... Almost.... lol...

Could not find a link for them? Are the for a 4x4. Have a 2006 350 6.0

why ain’t there lawsuits,Recalls??? There must be a Death rate or Crash rate because of this shit smh i’m Pissed they need to fix this crap

My 22’ with 19,000 miles wanders. And you always have to do a lot of small steering inputs to keep it going straight. This truck has done this since day one . I hate the ford steering. My bro in law has a 20’ GMC and it steers GREAT.

My 22’ with 19,000 miles wanders. And you always have to do a lot of small steering inputs to keep it going straight. This truck has done this since day one . I hate the ford steering. My bro in law has a 20’ GMC and it steers GREAT.

Interesting video. I have a 2002 F350 1ton long-bed 4x4 / 7.3 diesel with 4 leaf spring configuration. I had a 10” frame lift installed in 2008 which it still has and running 40” Toyo MT’s. I don’t think I experience what you describe is the death wobble but sometimes you don’t realize it when things gradually get worse in any case I was wondering what your thoughts were if I were to change this bushing out on my truck, do you think it would benefit me in any way even though I may not have a death wobble?

If you do have an alignment done it involves inspecting the " linkages" tie rod ends and parts for wear.

typical ford

typical ford

Can you tell me more about what you did to you Excursion I have a 2003 that is not fun to drive. Thanks Mike

While you're on the topic of vehicle geometry , ... its kind of scary the way the excursions tow angles were sitting . At minimum , a tandem axle trailer should be towing level . Preferred handling occurs with 4 inches of elevation off of the trailers fulcrum ( the front of the trailer ). It appears that you may have exceeded the excursions Payload capacity , taking into.consideration what the tongue weight may have been on that trailer , and the nose high angle of the excursion . Regardless of load distribution bars distributing the tongue weight to both axles of the tow vehicle instead of just the rear axle without them , it does not increase the tow vehicles payload by using load distribution bars . Having said that , with the power unit ( tow vehicle ) nose up , this Greatly affects handling .... you can get less steer axle road affect ( less effective braking , less steering control , less stability at any speeds ) . Which makes the trailer far more influental on safe handling with towing angles like in the photo . Either the tow vehicle was exceeded in payload , or the load distribution bars were not set up correctly ... or both heavans forbid . Yes ...there is a geometry issue that manufacturers need to address , but its up to us to ensure the basics are in place with variables that affect handling we ourselves create , such as with any modification like big wheels , hub extensions , lift kits , etc. P.S. - Never use a hammer to check steering components .... only check steering linkages with the vehicles full weight on its wheels and moderately shake the steering wheel back and forth just enough to move each respective linkage while squeezing your fingers on either side of the steering linkage joint boot to feel the differential movement between the two joints. This is done because you can't see subtle amounts of play from wear . You obviously need a helper for this . Note: Often F250 and 350's have the right outer tie rod wear out before other linkages. Also , you should disconnect steering dampeners to check them on Any vehicle. They should be fairly hard to actuate / stroke , just like a new standard shock absorber would be . Often they will lose their charge of oil or gas and it won't be noticeable because these components are horizontal and the charge inside goes to the ground and not all down the body of the steering dampener . Hope these basic starting points help some folks with inspecting their own vehicles before jumping too far ahead .

Your most positive while keeping the camber green and and cross caster split not more then 1.0 degrees about .5 or so to keep it driving straight on most roads road crown requires .5 degree lower caster on the left side if your split is to high it will pull to the lowest side ford had a bad batch of steering stablizers a few years back caused excessive death wobble in most of the big trucks reason for the recall to replace them, you video is good you have the right idea but i would recommend letting a professional handle the fine tunning put them in. fine save some labor providing there's enough ajustabilty to keep it .5 degrees split to the left and keeping the camber green and about the same on both sides then a toe adjustment and center the steering wheel adjustment and your golden 🏆💪🔧🚗🇺🇸

Lol much better to use a alignment rack with actual numbers so you keep the camber within range while raining the caster its fine adjust the caster but helps to have .5 degree split to the left for road crown if you have more the 1.0 degree split it will pull to the lowest side lol dont tell them you have a death wobble. anything with excessive play in it should be addressed as a alignment guy id rather you tell me whats going on with the truck if all you want is slugs installed thats fine but i will still advise you what i see on your truck this can happen to all vehicles trucks with that style of front suspension jeeps to after you install that slug you need to adjust the toe and hope your keeping the camber in the green as well i would hate to see some one just install these at home and think its all good theres more that will need to be adjusted 💪🔧🚗🇺🇸

No way I'm putting gasoline in mine. Propane only runs perfect every time 7 years old.

Add a Victron Energy SmartShunt so you know the state of charge if your battery, they are less than 150 USD!

I know how to fix the ford death wabble don’t buy one !!!!!

This guy is good

This guy is good

You are leaving out one thing about the caster angle, it won't effect going straight but it will effect the angle much more when turning. It is a weak point with McPherson Strut suspensions so much so many newer cars have some adjustment to it now, that's why the dual "A" Frame suspension was used in older American cars where in an Alignment caster was checked when maximum turn was initiated and camber was with the wheels straight along with toe-in & toe-out. One would think the issue has to do with handling or over steer is why Ford may have it that way.

Very interesting video. I experienced death wobble because I had a ball on one of my front steering tires. If I get it back for some reason this will be the first thing I do. Thanks 👍🏼

Move the entire exterior bracket down to line cable up

what is the name of that bushing?

Great video. What mileage did you have to do this?

I’ve heard about this many times, but never in detail like you did, thanks,

I’ve heard about this many times, but never in detail like you did, thanks,

Did this to my truck last year.... 3 degrees + caster seemed to be the magic number.... I run 37x13.50 with an 8 inch lift. Zero Death wobble!

I did thousands of these at the shop I worked at. They claimed I was the only one who could fix death wobble and not eat up the tires. I was one of the few that could tell the body shop how much and where to pull the frame so normal alignments could be accomplished. I made cars that dealers and several other shops could not go straight and not wear tires. Best one was a lexus that was in litigation because it could not be aligned by 15 alignment shops including 3 dealers. The lawyer was mad that I fixed it. Problem isn't they couldn't fix them, being on flat rate pay prevented them from putting in the time necessary to doing the job right. It's why parts they get paid to replace sometimes never get installed despite the customer still paying for it, and why good techs are leaving the field.

Hey please help. How did you get the truck aligned

💯 I've been saying this for years. Death wobble is caused by crappy alignment on all solid front axle vehicles. When I did a leveling kit on my Super Duty, the kit came with alignment casters. My alignment guy said those were wrong for my truck so he threw on a set that he believed were correct. I've never had a death wobble experience ever. A good alignment shop will look at your vehicle and tune it correctly. Not a set it forget it kit.

This also applies to all twin I beam fords from the eighties foward.

One very important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?

FORD NEEDS TO DO A RECALL FOR RECALL!! COST me over $4000.00 from the dealership! They worked on my 2012 F250 diesel with ONLY 105,000 miles on it! PLUS dealership the ONLY people to SERVICE it! Plus 30 days before SPARKS was coming from under the FRONT end costing approximately another $4000.00 BEFORE DEATH WOBBLE!! WHY DIDN'T THEY DIDN'T NOTICE ANYTHING!! 30 days!! F250 WORST FORD EVER OWNED!! NEVER WILL BUY ANOTHER! My F350'S ONLY replaced water pumps on them..

I wish I had a mind for this.

Amazon line

I have the exact same bushings. It looks to me like the small arrow (thick end) should go to the rear of the truck. Is this correct?